City escape

No matter how busy the world outside, the zoo in Dusit district of Bangkok is a nice break for long-time city residents as well as children: the former can relax and enjoy some nostalgic moments while the latter can be let loose and be on their own.

On a recent visit the eerie calm and the "No Backpack Allowed" sign at the entrance briefly left me stunned. But the ticketing clerk saw my hesitation and promptly motioned me in, saying, "It is alright. It's allowed now. The backpack just needs to be checked."

The bombs that rocked the city on New Year's eve have apparently heightened security concerns and the late opening of the zoo until 9pm has been suspended. That explained why it was so quiet at the entrance.

But once inside I found the place abuzz as usual, as if visitors had left their worries outside and stepped into the zoo for a dose of fun and the reminisce old times with a sense of nostalgia.

What is now Dusit Zoo, or Khao Din in Thai, began as a place of relaxation for the royalty during King Rama V's reign. But in 1938 it was turned into a zoo - Thailand's first - starting with just a few deer brought in from Java, Indonesia. Today it is home to over 1,600 animals that attracts more than 2.5 million visitors annually.

Walking around felt turning the pages of my childhood diary, especially in the company of my 16-month-old son Pun, who seemed more animated than I myself remember feeling when I first visited the zoo all those years ago.

I can recall the giant hippos and elephants and the huge stink they raised. In fact, I can still smell them.

The place was packed with children of all age and the shade provided by towering trees seemed to add to the jovial atmosphere.

Our first stop was the museum, which for adults can be boring because it features the usual - the environment and different kinds of forest - but for kids, it is an exciting unknown world. Different specimen of birds, fish and animals sent my son raving.

He looked specially excited watching a group of penguins swimming because he hung around quite long, perhaps wondering why the bird-like creatures didn't fly but swim.

Elsewhere, he was equally in awe. He tried to stand tall watching a giraffe, went imitating gibbons on trees, aped a yawning tiger and when he saw the hippo his demeanour turned dour.

The zoo is a far cry from the old days when visitors had to strain for a glimpse of the animals and cover their nose to prevent the stink from getting to them.

The pungent smell is gone and there is elegant fencing where kids can be safely left on their own to admire the animals.

I tried to take stock of changes around: there was a new parking facility, an amusement park, a KFC and other fast food outlets next to a scenic lake. There were shops selling souvenirs: memorial coins and cute animal toys.

I bought my son a ball which he threw with all his might and I had to scamper and retrieve it for him. He giggled with delight every time I handed the ball back to him.

Sure it was fun for him, but not quite so for his father who had to carry him and also shoulder the camera bag at the same time.

On one occasion the ball bounced close to the lake and old memories came flooding back. In its background was the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, and like before its dome stood out in all its magnificence in the distance.

The lush lawns around the lake attracted teenagers relaxing there at the end of their boating excursion. I also spotted love couples sharing romantic moments on green grass with the lake spread out leisurely before them.

The scene became more exhilarating as the sun was about to set. I waited for it go down, thoroughly enjoying the sight. By now it was quite dark and I knew it was time to leave.

MORE INFO

Dusit Zoo opens daily from 8am-6pm. The admission fee is 50 baht for adults and 10 baht for kids. For foreigners, it is 100 baht for adults and 50 baht for kids.

Parking is available at the entrance on Uthong Road.

For more information, call 02-281-2000.
Bangkok Post